“The lyfe so short, the craft so hard to learn.”
Parliament of Fowls, Geoffrey Chaucer
My wife Emily‘s birthday was a couple of weeks ago, and we had perhaps one of the best meals of our lives at North Pond Restaurant, located on the North Pond in Lincoln Park. The funny thing is that it was a last minute reservation that landed us there.
The impetus for going to North Pond was that we had made a reservation elsewhere for a nice dinner, but not at a place that would have been acceptable for Scarlet, our almost seven year-old, to join us. This made Scarlet so very sad, so we changed plans and made a 5:30 pm reservation that could include her.
Following an early winter snowstorm, we headed to the restaurant. To get there, you leave your car on the western edge of the park, and, in this case, walk across a path cleared in the snow passing through a tunnel constructed of rock and then on through the park until you arrive at the restaurant’s front door. From there you have a view across the pond, the entire park, and in the distance, the cold twinkling skyline of Chicago. Covered with snow, on a crisp, perfect winter night, it was stunning and poetically memorable.
Once inside, Bruce Sherman (North Pond’s chef, who I have gotten to know over the years through involvement in Chicago’s Green City Market) visited us at our table in the very cozy confines of North Pond’s Arts & Craft style building. I have always liked Bruce as he is very amiable, charmingly cynical and really quite funny. I have experienced his humor in varying degrees, perhaps none greater than an evening spent with him and a few others emptying many bottles of red wine at Delfina in San Francisco after the Slow Food Nation Event.
Scarlet was absolutely amazed that we knew the chef (and quite a bit delighted that we did). Bruce gave us his recommendations and agreed to make something special for Scarlet who was concerned about two things: First she thought that there would be no other kids at this restaurant, which was indeed true, and second that she wouldn’t find anything that she’d like to eat, which of course was completely not the case.
North Pond epitomizes the farm-to-table restaurant, with Bruce knowing the farms and farmers he works with very well. No molecular gastronomy here. Marvelous, carefully selected ingredients thoughtfully seasoned and prepared with great care. I must say, everything was amazing, from appetizers, to entrees, to the wine, to the desert. Scarlet had quail, or a “mini- chicken” as Bruce put it, and perhaps one of the best things any of us has ever tasted: an incredible bacon wrapped potato. Not that bacon and potatoes are hard to find, but these were simply the best bacon and potato ever to meet in one place on one plate. Scarlet loved it and has been talking about how good it was ever since. There were other nice touches including a special birthday menu for Emily and an “almost birthday” menu for Scarlet. Although there were many others eating at the restaurant, it really felt as if dinner was prepared just for us that evening, as I am sure other diners felt as well.
Bruce’s cooking continues to amaze and inspire me. Each time we visit the food gets better, although with each visit it seems like it couldn’t possibly get any better. And Bruce is nothing but humble about it. His desire seems to be continuous improvement.
Not only that, but the service is very much a reflection of him in that it is not grandstanding, condescending, or intimidating. The message is great local food, presented with integrity and generosity of spirit. How nice. No punk rock attitude, just stunning food and kind, elegant hospitality with a desire for continuous improvement. Let me say it again, how nice.
Perhaps all of us that have coffeebars can take a cue from this?
If you have begun to go down this path, it is surely a step in the right direction. If not, it sure seems like a good time to get started.
Keep up the great work, Bruce.
